Following the very successful first Romney Marsh Church Tour of 2023 we continued our exploration of the Marsh Churches with Church Tour 2. Apologies for any errors – they will be mine!
We began our tour in New Romney where 20 of us gathered at 9.15 am on Wednesday 10th July, 2024. I handed out the map, itinerary and a brief history of St Nicholas Church and then we were met at the Church door by Anne Rolfe the Church Warden, who had kindly opened up for us.
As we entered the church Anne asked if any of our members would like to climb the bell tower, because someone was available to take us up. About 17 members braved the tower (not me!!). While the brave scaled the heights, the rest of us explored the beautiful interior of the church. Tim Lawrence joined us for the tour of St Nicholas only.
The Church of St Nicholas is a 12th century Norman parish church with some Gothic additions to the east end. It has a large, attractive, exterior with a stout tower that once overlooked the harbour and still bears scars from the great storm of 1287.
It is hard to imagine today since the coast is now a couple of miles away, that the church once stood at the head of the harbour and ships were moored at the edge of the churchyard. The tower and nave were regularly crowded with traders conducting business. In 1287 the South Coast storm filled the port with four feet of sand and shingle and New Romney went into decline. However, the church survived and still bears witness to the disaster, through its below ground level entrance and stained pillars.
In the 13th and 14th century the church was enlarged.
We left New Romney and headed for St Eanswythe’s Church at Brenzett.
St Eanswythe is tucked away along a quiet lane. The church had been unlocked for us by a lovely lady from nearby and a welcome card left for us from the Brenzett History Society (see photo).
St Eanswythe church in Brenzett has a long history dating back to Saxon times in the 7th century when a small church was first erected on the spot now occupied by the present church. St Eanswythe was a 7th century local saint from Folkestone. She was an Anglo- Saxon princess.
In 630, Eanswythe founded the Benedictine Priory at Folkestone, the first nunnery in England. She was supported in this by her father, Eadbald, who ruled as King of Kent from 616 to 640.
A large tomb to John Fagge dominates the lady chapel and was the inspiration for Edith Nesbit’s ghost story, ‘Man Size in Marble’.
While at St Eanswythe, we all enjoyed Janet playing a short tune on the Harmonium and looked forward to more of her music at the next church.
On leaving St Eanswythe we headed for St Augustine’s Church at Brookland.
Prior to our visit I had spoken to Reverend Shuna Body who gave her permission for us to gain access to the unique free standing St Augustine bell tower. This was subject to availability, as scaffolding was about to be erected for repair work. We kept this information to ourselves to avoid disappointment and when we arrived the scaffolding was in the process of being erected. However, all was not lost! Once the scaffolders had done their job, a friendly crowd of bellringers arrived and we were given the all clear to enter the bell tower. An incredible experience followed, with an eventual peal of bells ringing out across Brookland (see photo’s).
Prior and after visiting the bell tower we were able to explore the beautiful interior of St Augustine’s Church. Sadly, the organ was locked, so Janet was unable to give us the recital we were hoping for. Last year, at St Peter and St Paul, Newchurch, Janet played for us and we were all anticipating a repeat performance. Hopefully there will be another time – Romney Marsh Church Tour 3?
St Augustine’s Church at Brookland was built in 1260 to replace an open framed structure built a century before. The church is best known for its odd, detached, bell tower, made entirely from wood. The tower is octagonal and has a conical roof of 3 diminishing flounces. It was built beside the church because it was felt that the marshy ground could not take the weight of both the church building and its 6 bells.
The church possesses an excellent font made around 1200. It is circular and is made of lead. There are 2 courses; the upper course shows the signs of the Zodiac and the lower course the agricultural labours appropriate to each month of the year. On an arch above each labour the month is shown in early French. On the east end of the south wall of the south chapel is the surviving part of a painting depicting the martyrdom of Thomas Becket in 1170; this was discovered in 1964 and is thought to have been painted in the second half of the 13th century.
We waved to the bellringers and went on our way to St Peter and St Paul at Dymchurch.
We arrived at St Peter and St Paul at 12.00 mid-day and this beautifully kept church still had the wonderful floral displays from the recently held Open Day. Before our visit the Church Warden had requested that nobody should climb the steps to the church organ (concern for our safety). Sadly, this Tour was a good one for bell towers but not such a good one for church organs!
One of St Peter and St Paul’s parishioners was Arthur Russell Thorndike, actor and author, creator of the fictional vicar of Dymchurch, Dr Syn.
Download Russell Thorndike pamphlet - courtesy Dymchurch & District Heritage Group
St Peter and St Paul Church is a classic Norman church built in the 12th century about 1150 and has remained virtually unchanged for nearly 700 years. The church is situated at the North end of Dymchurch village between the historic Cinque Port towns of Hythe and New Romney. It is built from the same Caen stone as Canterbury Cathedral, filled in with Kentish ragstone.
The famous ‘Day of Dr Syn’ theme was given to the Rector of St Peter and St Paul, Dymchurch for fund raising by Dame Sybil Thorndike CBE and Companion of Honour, who was the sister of Russell Thorndike, the author of the Dr Syn book.
We left St Peter and St Paul at 12.30 and crossed the road for lunch at The Ship Inn. We had all enjoyed a fantastic day with excellent company rounded off with a very friendly gathering for lunch at the Ship Inn.
Commiserations to those HLHG members who wanted to be with us but couldn’t make it.
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